Pearl Quality - The Criteria
PEARL QUALITY – THE CRITERIA
The quality of pearls, like many things, depends on quality and rarity. Although there is a wide selection of new cars, a new Ferrari will always cost more than a new Toyota sedan. Additionally, the price of a new Chrysler van is above that of an older one. But a brand new Ford family car will certainly surpass the price of an old classic Bentley. Furthermore, a small Vauxhall will be cheaper than a large Mercedes. It depends on size, and high quality combined with rarity means limited availability. If it is difficult to obtain something, it will almost always be exclusive and sought after. The price of pearls is influenced by all factors of quality.
A cultured pearl is always a small wonder of nature. Nevertheless, there are great differences between the individual sea beauties. Determining their quality is very complex and requires a great deal of experience. Basically, the quality of a cultured pearl is determined by five factors:
1. Luster (shine)
2. Surface
3. Size
4. Shape
5. Color
1 – LUSTER OR THE SHINE OF THE PEARL
(From left to right: B, AA, A, AAA. A cultured pearl with a luster of AAA quality is about 3 times as valuable as a cultured pearl of B quality.)
The iridescent shimmer of a pearl is a fascinating sight. It is no coincidence that the so-called luster is considered the most important factor in determining pearl quality. Luster refers to both the shine of the pearl's surface and the light reflection through the fine crystal layers of aragonite. In a cultured pearl of the highest quality, one's own reflection is clearly visible. In general, the more intense the luster of a cultured pearl, the more valuable it is.
AAA = (Gem quality)
highest clarity, optimal light refraction, clear reflection
AA = (very fine quality, excellent)
very good light refraction with good reflection
A = (fine quality, good)
good light refraction and reflection
B = (commercial quality, dull)
thin coating with "milky" (weak) light refraction and reflection
2 – SURFACE
The purity and structure of the surface is an essential factor in the evaluation of a cultured pearl. The more flawless the surface, the higher the quality.
(From left to right: Spot level 1, 2, 5, 3, 4)
Smaller irregularities, scarring, and depressions on the surface are referred to as spots. These almost always occur, as they are signs of the natural formation of cultured pearls. The so-called 'spot level' indicates how clean the surface is. In the assessment, the sea treasures are assigned to one of 5 levels.
1 = at least 80% of the surface is clean (i.e., without any scarring or inclusions), the rest only very small spots
2 = at least 60% of the surface is clean, the rest only very small spots
3 = the surface has few flaws, i.e., light, weak spots (not deep) are distributed on the surface
4 = the surface has many flaws, i.e., deeper and more visible spots are distributed on the surface
5 = the surface has many flaws, often very deep inclusions, so-called 'hammer-marks'
Since cultured pearls are products of nature, the breeder has no direct influence on how clean the surface of his cultured pearls will be at harvest. A cultured pearl with spot level 1 is therefore a rare beauty and can be six times as expensive as a comparable cultured pearl with spot level 5.
3 - SIZE
The size of cultured pearls is always given in millimeters. It is important that not the largest point is measured, but the second largest: Therefore, for oval cultured pearls, the width instead of the length is considered the correct size. For non-round, baroque shapes, the length, width, and possibly also the height are given. Cultured pearls are sorted using sieves. Their holes are designed so that pearls with a size difference of up to half a millimeter can fall through. For example, there is a sieve for pearls of size 6 – 6.5 mm, for 6.5 – 7 mm, for 7 – 7.5 mm, etc.
The size of the cultured pearl is influenced by the inserted nucleus as well as the thickness of the nacre layer, which gives the cultured pearl its durability and incomparable luster. If all other quality features are equal, the principle applies: the larger, the more valuable.
In general, it can be said that the price increases by at least 35 percent with each additional millimeter. However, if the size of a cultured pearl exceeds the average size of its pearl type, its price increases disproportionately.
For example, the sizes of Akoya cultured pearls range between 2 and 9 mm. Larger Akoya cultured pearls are very rare and therefore valuable.
South Sea cultured pearls are also called the 'Queens of Pearls' due to their size and the thickness of the nacre layer. They grow to be 8 to 17 mm, with some specimens reaching up to 22 mm in round form.
The average size of a Fiji cultured pearl, on the other hand, is 10 to 11 mm, with sizes up to 18 mm possible in rare cases.
Round-shaped Tahitian cultured pearls have a diameter of 9 to 14 mm, with 9 to 11 mm being the most common. Sizes of 16 or even 18 mm are very rare.
4 – FORM
Shape is one of the quality factors that determine the price of a pearl. Cultured pearls come in various shapes: they are distinguished between round, near-round, oval, drop-shaped, button-shaped (Boutons), semi-baroque, and baroque cultured pearls. The latter have become fashionable and highly sought after in recent years.
Round pearls and perfect drops are very rare and therefore particularly precious. However, this does not mean that other shapes do not also have their charm and value. Each shape is attractive and can be creatively used in jewelry design; for example, oval or drop-shaped pearls enchant in earrings, and a necklace of baroque pearls with beautiful luster is a more affordable but extremely attractive alternative to a round pearl necklace.
5 – COLOR
The variety of colors in cultured pearls is breathtaking. From delicate white to metallic anthracite, to vibrant green or warm aubergine – the pearl colors are as individual as the personality of their wearer. For this reason, the color of a cultured pearl has no objective impact on its quality. Rather, it influences the perceived beauty of the sea jewel depending on personal taste. However, there are colors that increase the value of a cultured pearl due to high demand or rarity. For example, the color white-rose is very popular due to its delicacy. Very rare and therefore particularly valuable are Tahitian cultured pearls in the colors cherry, brown, or the so-called 'peacock', which shimmers multicolored like a peacock feather. Deep golden South Sea cultured pearls are also rare beauties that captivate with their splendor.
OVERVIEW OF CULTURED PEARL TYPES
Freshwater cultured pearls occur in natural colors of cream, rose, and peach. They are bleached for a white color.
(Color spectrum of freshwater cultured pearls)
Akoya cultured pearls are harvested in natural colors ranging from white, gray, and cream to almost golden tones. Pure white Akoya cultured pearls are usually bleached.
(Color spectrum Akoya cultured pearls)
The color spectrum of South Sea cultured pearls ranges from white, silver, and gray to champagne and cream to golden. Particularly popular are white pearls with a pink overtone or deep golden pearls.
(Color spectrum South Sea cultured pearls)
Tahiti cultured pearls appear in a variety of cool natural colors, which can range from all shades of gray to deep black. They often have a greenish or reddish overtone. Rare colors are blue or peacock.
(Color spectrum Tahiti cultured pearls)
Fiji cultured pearls are known for their fascinating color spectrum. Their mostly warm tones range from aubergine, gold, bronze, and brown to blue, silver, and pistachio.
(Color spectrum Fiji cultured pearls )
As is clearly shown in the overview, with treasures from the sea, color is not just color. Particularly mysterious are the fine nuances of the thick nacre layer, which can change within a single cultured pearl.
Thus, cultured pearls are distinguished between body color and overtone: the so-called body color is the main color of the cultured pearl, such as white, gray, or rose.
The overtone is the slight tint that overlays the body color. It appears, for example, as a rosy, greenish, or bluish sheen.
Not only that, a high-quality cultured pearl shimmers with an iridescent luster, the 'luster', which seems to dance on the surface.
If you consider all five quality criteria (luster, surface, size, shape, and color) when evaluating a cultured pearl, it quickly becomes clear what great differences there are between the individual sea beauties. Because they are true products of nature – and thus each one is unique.